Ron Eade, The Ottawa Citizen

 Published: Wednesday, December 06, 2006

Ras El Hanout Spice Blend

Makes about 1/4 cup (50 mL)

- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) anise seeds

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) fennel seeds

- 8 whole allspice berries

- Seeds from 8 cardamom pods, or 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground

- 8 whole cloves

- 15 black peppercorns

- 1 stick cinnamon, or 1 level tablespoon (15 mL) ground

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) sesame seeds

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) coriander seeds

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) cumin seeds

- Pinch, hot red pepper flakes or chilies

- Pinch, mace

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) ginger powder

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground nutmeg

Crush all ingredients with a mortar and pestle, or use a clean electric coffee grinder. Store in airtight container and use within 6 months.

Turkey, Juniper and Dried Blueberries

Fills one 9-inch (23-cm) pie

- 25 ounces (725 g) ground turkey plus 25 ounces (725 g) cubed turkey

- Salt and pepper

- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) juniper berries

- 7 ounces (200 g) whole pearl onions

- 2 cups (500 mL) dry white wine

- 31/2 ounces (100 g) dried blueberries

- 1 beaten egg

1. In a frypan, saute ground meat with salt, pepper, and juniper berries and pearl onions. Remove and set aside.

2. In the same frypan, saute cubed meat to brown; deglaze with white wine and reduce liquid to half, about 30 minutes. In a bowl, combine meats/pearl onions with dried blueberries, beaten egg and reduced wine from pan. Fill shell, brush with egg wash and bake as in Savoury Pursuits Tourtiere.

Savoury Pursuits Tourtiere

Fills one 9-inch (23-cm) pie

- 2 medium potatoes, scrubbed and cubed, skins on

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) butter

- 31/2 ounces (100 g) sliced mushrooms

- 23/4 pounds (1.25 kg) lean meat (ie: 500 grams ground pork, 500 grams ground beef, 250 grams cubed stewing beef OR 500 grams ground pork, 500 grams ground beef, 250 grams ground or cubed veal OR 1.25 kg ground pork only OR 500 grams ground pork, 500 grams ground beef, 250 grams cubed pork)

- 2 onions, finely chopped

- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) each, dry thyme and sage

- 11/2 teaspoons (7 mL) ground cinnamon

- 2 cups (500 mL) beef stock

- 1/4 cup (50 mL) flour

- Salt and pepper, to taste

- 1 egg

1. Boil potatoes in salted water until soft enough to mash, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain and roughly mash so that some small chunks remain. Set aside.

2. In a frypan, melt butter and saute mushrooms; set aside.

3. In a deep heavy frypan or cast-iron Dutch oven, saute ground meats (not cubed meat) with onions, thyme, sage, cinnamon over medium to high heat, breaking up meat and stirring with wooden spoon until very little pink remains. (This filling will cook in the pastry shell, so it is important not to fully cook the meat at this point or the final product will be dry.) If using some cubed meat, simmer in stock until tender, about 30 minutes.

4. Drain most of the fat from ground meat and transfer meat to a large mixing bowl. Add cubed meat, using a slotted spoon to reserve stock. Using the remaining fat in the frypan, make a roux by adding flour and cooking 2 to 3 minutes, stirring until smooth. Slowly add stock to roux, stirring continuously to make a brown sauce. Season to taste with salt, pepper.

5. Add mushrooms, roughly mashed potatoes, 1 cup (250 mL) of the brown sauce and 1 beaten egg to the meat; mix well. Fill prepared short crust pastry shell so meat is packed and domed. Cover and close with pastry top, brush with egg wash as for Basic Short Pie Crust recipe, and cut with steam vents.

6. Bake in preheated oven at 375 degrees F (190 degreesC) 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until crust is golden brown and filling is bubbling but not dried.

Green Tomato Mincemeat

Makes about 12 cups/3 L. (enough for 6 to 8 pies)

- 8 cups (2 L) chopped green tomatoes, or 4 cups chopped tart green apples (peel on) plus 4 cups (1 L) whole seedless oranges, ends and seeds removed and chopped with peel as you would for marmalade

- 6 cups (1.5 L) chopped tart apples, peel on

- 2 whole lemons, chopped, seeds and thick pith at ends removed and chopped with peel

- 3 cups (750 mL) raisins

- 4 cups (1 L) brown sugar, packed

- 3 teaspoons (15 mL) ground cinnamon

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground cloves

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground allspice

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground nutmeg

- 3/4 teaspoon (4 mL) black pepper

- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) salt

- 3/4 cup (175 mL) butter

- Port wine (optional)

1. Chop green tomatoes and/or all fresh fruit into coarse cubes. Place in a large heavy bottom pot with raisins, sugar, spices and salt. Gradually bring to a boil and gently simmer until thick, about 2 hours.

2. Add butter and mix until melted. Pour into sterilized glass jars. Add 1 teaspoon port wine to top of each jar. Seal and store in refrigerator. If sealed, use within 12 months; once opened, use within 1 month.

Duck, Maple Syrup and Orange Tourtiere

Fills one 9-inch (23-cm) pie

- 25 ounces (725 g) ground chicken plus 25 ounces (725 g) cubed duck.

- 2 ribs celery, chopped

- 2 onions, chopped fine

- Salt and pepper, to taste

- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) each, dry thyme, sage

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground ginger

- 2 cups (500 mL) orange juice

- 1 orange, grated zest and chopped flesh

- 1/4 cup (50 mL) maple syrup

1. In a Dutch oven or large heavy frypan, saute ground chicken with celery, onions, salt, pepper, thyme, sage and ginger. Set aside.

style="font-size:8pt"2. In a large saucepan, simmer cubed duck in 2 cups of orange juice with the grated orange zest and chopped orange flesh. Skim excess fat. Using a slotted spoon, remove cooked duck and add to ground meat in a mixing bowl.

3. Simmer orange juice and drippings from duck to reduce to 1 cup (250 mL). Stir in maple syrup. Mix orange-maple sauce with meat, fill shell and bake as for Savoury Pursuits Tourtiere.

Basic Short Pie Crust

Makes 1 top and bottom pie crust

- 3/4 teaspoon (4 mL) salt

- 2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour

- 1 cup (250 mL) vegetable shortening (preferably non-hydrogenated), or butter

- 1 cold egg

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) ice-cold water

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) cold vinegar

Egg wash:

- 1 egg plus 1 tablespoon (15 mL) cold water, whisked together

Optional:

- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) dry savoury herbs ie: celery seeds, thyme leaves

1. In a large mixing bowl, sprinkle salt over flour. Place shortening or butter on top of the flour and, using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut fat into the flour until the mixture resembles small peas. Be careful not to over-work.

2. Mix remaining ingredients (except egg wash and optional savoury herbs) together in a small, refrigerator-cold bowl, whisking lightly. Pour wet over the cut dry ingredients and lightly fork together the pastry mixture.

3. Gather pastry in a ball, kneading gently, then wrap in plastic and refrigerate 60 minutes to rest. On a work surface lightly dusted with flour, roll pastry to thickness of about 1/8 inch (3 mm), sprinkling flour and optional dry herbs for savoury pies. For the bottom crust, use overturned pie plate as a template on the dough, cutting a 1- to 2-inch (4-cm) wide margin around plate rim so that the bottom layer of pastry will completely cover bottom and sides of pie plate. For the pie top, run a knife against plate rim to exactly match the circircumference.

4. Transfer bottom crust into pie plate and fill with your chosen filling. Place pastry lid over filling, folding over overhang and crimping with fork and fingers. Cut small steam vents in top and brush crust with egg wash.

5. Bake in preheated oven at 375 degreesF (190 degreesC) for 45 minutes, or until golden.

Lamb, Roasted Red and Green Pepper and Feta

- 25 ounces (725 g) ground lamb plus 25 ounces (725 g) cubed lamb.

- Salt and pepper

- 11/2 tablespoons (22 mL) fresh mint, chopped, or 11/2 teaspoons (7 mL) dry

- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) dry oregano

- 7 ounces (200 g) whole pearl onions

- 2 cups (500 mL) dry red wine

- 7 ounces (200 g) crumbled feta cheese

- 7 ounces (200 g) chopped roasted red and green sweet peppers, about 3/4 cup (175 mL)

- 1 egg, beaten

1. In a frypan, saute ground meat with salt, pepper, dry mint (if using) and oregano.

2. In another frypan, saute cubed lamb with pearl onions until meat is lightly browned, then deglaze pan with red wine and simmer until lamb is tender and liquid is reduced by half, 30 minutes.

3. In a bowl, mix together meats, fresh mint (if using), feta and peppers with beaten egg and liquid from pan. Fill shell and, brush top with egg wash as in Short Pie Crust recipe, and bake as for Savoury Pursuits Tourtiere.

Elk, Cranberry and Pistachios

Fills one 9-inch (23-cm) pie

- 25 ounces (725 g) ground elk plus 25 ounces (725 g) cubed elk or venison

- 2 onions, chopped fine

- Salt and pepper

- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) dry sage

- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) dry rosemary

- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) ground cloves

- 2 cups (500 mL) dry red wine

- 5 ounces (140 g) fresh or frozen cranberries

- 5 ounces (140 g) pistachios

- 1 beaten egg

1. In a frypan, saute ground meat with onions, salt, pepper, sage, rosemary and cloves; remove and set aside. Add cubed meat to frypan and saute to brown; deglaze with red wine and reduce liquid volume to half, about 30 minutes.

2. In a bowl, combine ground and cubed meat, cranberries and pistachios with egg and reduced wine. Fill shell and brush top with egg wash as in Short Pie Crust recipe; bake as for Savoury Pursuits Tourtiere.

Chicken B'stilla Filling

(Moroccan Chicken & Almond Pie)

Fills one 9-inch (23-cm) pie

- 3/4 cup (175 mL) sliced or slivered blanched almonds, toasted lightly in 350 degreesF (180 degreesC) oven on parchment paper about 5 minutes, or until golden

- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) icing sugar, plus more for dusting

- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) ground cinnamon, plus more for dusting

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) vegetable oil, plus more for brushing (or use unsalted butter, melted)

- 1 medium onion, chopped fine

- 2 large garlic cloves, crushed and chopped

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground ginger

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) ras el hanout spice blend (on page E2)

- 3/4 teaspoon (4 mL) fresh ground black pepper

- 2 full deboned chicken breasts (that's 4 half-breasts, from 2 chickens) cut into small cubes

- 11/2 cups (375 mL) water, or chicken broth

- 4 large eggs, lightly beaten

- 2 to 3 tablespoons (25 to 50 mL) fresh lemon juice

- 1/4 cup (50 mL) chopped fresh parsley, cilantro or chopped green onion (optional)

- Two 454-g packages phyllo pastry, thawed in the refrigerator overnight

1. Pulse toasted almonds with icing sugar and cinnamon in a food processor or clean coffee grinder to form a fine meal, set aside.

2. In a deep pan, heat oil and saute onion and garlic over moderate heat just until onion begins to turn golden. Reduce heat and add ginger, ras el hanout spice blend and black pepper, simmering 2 minutes to toast, being careful not to burn the spices. Add chicken pieces, tossing lightly to coat with the spices and onion. Add only enough water (or broth) to just cover chicken. Simmer until chicken is cooked though and tender, 20 to 30 minutes.

3. Transfer meat mixture to a side dish using a slotted spoon, and measure remaining liquid. Return liquid to pan and continue to simmer on slightly higher heat until reduced to just under 2 cups (450 mL).

4. Reduce heat and add beaten eggs in a steady stream, whisking with the addition. Add almond mixture, lemon juice and chicken and continue to cook until most of the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat and toss in fresh herbs or chopped green onion for colour and to taste.

5. Allow mixture to cool, or cover and refrigerate overnight.

6. Unwrap phyllo pastry and lay flat on counter. You must work quickly with phyllo or it will get dry and crispy and you will be unable to work with it. Place plastic wrap and a heavy, damp towel on top of phyllo to prevent drying out.

7. For traditional pot pie, take one sheet of phyllo, place on work surface and brush with oil or melted butter. Repeat for a total of 10 layers, brushing each layer lightly with oil or melted butter. Lay the stack in the bottom and up sides of a greased, 9-inch (23-cm) round pie plate, cake pan or casserole. Repeat to make a second stack of phyllo, again 10 layers. Place the second stack at right angles on top of the first. Spoon filling into the phyllo crust.

8. Make a top crust in the same manor as the bottom, this time stacking only 8 sheets of phyllo in one direction. Trim and roll together overhanging pastry to seal. Cut small steam vents in top crust.

9. Place pan in a preheated oven at 350 degreesF (180 degreesC), brush with oil or melted butter and bake 30 to 45 minutes until pastry is golden brown, being careful not to burn the thin outer layer of the pastry: (Remember, the filling is already cooked so you are just cooking the outer pastry to a crisp, golden colour.) Serve immediately, sprinkling with a dusting of confectioner's sugar and cinnamon. Decorate with toasted slivered almonds, if desired, before slicing into wedges to serve.